Results 1 to 16 of Set your camber at Being a little bit scientific about it will help in the end even if it takes a lot of time up front. I can keep up with the field with no problem. I found actually that adjusting the front width would solve a lot of the push and loose problems. Here is what I would suggest for a process.
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I like to keep it simple, after all, the front is connected to the back. After going to the track yesterday it is working way better than it was. I can keep up with the field with no problem. Strip all the lead off the coyoe. For me, playing with tread widths, as long as cross and left percentages were right, could solve push and loose problems. It’s tough teaching an old dog almost 60 new tricks, but I feel like I’m in the window now and I’m having fun with this new challenge.
The torque on mine was so low it wouldn’t even nodem the needle on my torque wrench, so I set it where they recommended.
Scale ckyote with out any additional weight. After watching his karts run a few weeks ago, I’m taking his advice to heart. I have found with the Coyote XP karts that I have setup that they work better with weight down lower.
So what is right here? Now it’s as much driver error as anything else.
2018 Coyote XP Kart Chassis
OK, I need to correct my first post. When you have 50 lbs of lead to install, we put most on the coyotf but mid way up instead of as high as you can mount it.
One to the front, and one to the back of the seat. Then mount the rest of the lead like I stated above to get your front weight at the desired percentage. mdem
But try not to go crazy. The YLC’s seem to modemm up pretty quickly with that much nose weight. I know I need to keep it high to get it to transfer the weight on the corners, but I can’t make that much weight fit on the seat and still get it to scale out right. As long as you are with in 5 lbs difference in weight between the LF and the RF while keeping the percentages as close to 42F 50L 50X as possible the kart should drive a lot better.
Probably because they are stiffer. Next, I’m wondering about the steering on this thing.
My biggest problem seems to be that I have to add about 50 pounds to make the weight class. Same for the LR and the RR.
Struggling with Coyote XP!
All times are GMT We typically had some on the lower mounting bracket for the steering shaft and some on the floor pan. Typically you cyote be turning that far. I’m finally getting someplace! You can stop placing it up front. Get the kart to scale to the numbers mentioned previously.
There’s been a lot of advancements since then! If you x; the nose weight is already where it needs to be, then keep stacking the weight on the seat if you can.
The last kart I drove competitively was a Emmick Elite, roughly 30 years ago. A gentleman from Coyote I don’t midem his name told me that the tie rods want to be in the rear-most holes on the spindles. Jason – after watching you run this weekend, your advice goes to the very top of my list.
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